Zafra - the 'Little Seville'
- Mark Eveleigh
- Mar 11
- 3 min read
Updated: Mar 25
'From the moment I entered the suburbs of Zafra I was continually greeted by people wishing me ‘buen camino’. Perhaps it was something to do with the communal atmosphere of Sunday morning in a relatively small city. I was charmed from the outset with the palpable sense of hospitality of the segedanos (as the people of Zafra are called).' - from Vagabond: A Hiker's Homage to Rural Spain.
Zafra, a small town in the heart of Badajoz province, is a place where history mingles effortlessly with the quiet rhythms of rural life. Known as La Sevilla Chica (Little Seville), Zafra retains the elegance of Andalusia, yet remains a peaceful estremeño retreat, unspoiled by the rush of larger cities. This might be how Seville seemed two centuries ago. Zafra's narrow streets are lined with whitewashed houses, their courtyards adorned with flowers. Even the simplest breakfast at a sunny terrace in the impressive Plaza de España, where the heart of the town beats under the shade of centuries-old trees, is something to be savoured and long remembered.
Zafra’s charm lies in its medieval heritage, with the Alcázar de los Duques de Feria dominating the skyline. This fortified palace, built in the 15th century, stands as a reminder of the town’s once strategic importance. It’s a fortress that's steeped in tales of nobles and battles long past, yet still alive with the sounds of modern life.
The Mudéjar Convent of Santa Clara looms behind its heavy oak doors and high walls, a sanctuary for cloistered nuns for nearly five centuries, visitors are surprised to learn that Jane Dormer, once lady-in-waiting to Mary I of England, rests there in quiet obscurity. These days, only a handful of women enter the cloisters to take the traditional vows of chastity, poverty, piety, and obedience, choosing a life entirely removed from the outside world. At the Convento de Santa Clara the nuns have embraced change, running a small museum and selling pastries to visitors.
Zafra’s pace is slow, perfectly tuned to the grand, sun-baked plains that surround it. This is not a place to rush into for a bout of frantic sightseeing. Instead, settle in for a few days and you might find that you'll never want to leave.
Best places to eat in Zafra old town:
Typical spend (per person):
€ = <€13
€€ = €13-€30
€€€ = €30<
La Extremeña - €
Calle Manuel Álvarez, 1
In a city as appealing as Zafra it can be tempting to opt for a picnic and this might be one of the best places in the province to pick up first class local jamón, other cold meats, goat cheese and wine at unbeatable prices. It's become so popular that many people from other regions mail-order extremeño specialities from here.
9am-2pm, 5pm-8pm (Closed Sundays)
Bar Taxi - €
Calle Cestería, 1
A humble exterior hides a real gem with great value tapas and extremely quaffable regional wine served at rustic tables next to massively oversized wine and sherry barrels. Very popular with the townspeople and a timeless (and typically hospitable) insight to old Spain.
Midday-Midnight (Closed Tuesday & Wednesday)
Restaurante Dulce Chacón - €€
Plaza Grande
A wonderful lunch/dinner venue with enough local specialities to test adventurous carnivores: try manitas de cerdo (trotters) or secreto Ibérico ('Iberian secret' - basically pig's armpit). There are also delicious vegetarian options including some from other parts of Spain: Canary Islands papas arrugadas con mojo picón ('wrinkly potatoes' traditionally boiled in seawater and then served with spicy sauce).
Monday-Thursday: 12:30pm-4 pm, 8pm-11:30 pm / Friday-Sunday: Friday, 12:30 pm–12 am
Los Mundos de Sancho - €€
Plaza Grande, 7
This unbeatable terrace right on Plaza Grande is hard to beat and the meals here also live up to expectation. You'll find all the usual suspects prepared and served faultlessly and for something different you could also share raciones (for example a plate of local-style ancas de rana - frog's legs) or a selection of extremeño cheeses.
9:30am-midnight (Closed Mondays).