Mérida - home of 'the gladiator'
- Mark Eveleigh
- Mar 11
- 4 min read
Updated: Mar 25
It's tempting to imagine that in any other part of Europe Mérida would be a household name as a major tourist destination. In little known Extremadura it is merely considered one of the most spectacular jewels in an area with almost unparalleled historical riches.
This city has survived as a living testament to ancient Rome. Once the capital of the Roman province of Lusitania, the town’s ruins are woven seamlessly into everyday life, making history feel present, not past. The Roman Theatre, one of the best-preserved in the world, still echoes with the energy of ancient performances. It was built around 15BCE and was able to accommodate a crowd of 6,000! At the Amphitheatre (just a few years younger and seating an incredible 14,000) you can still see the pit that was used to keep the wild animals that once fought to the death in gladiatorial contests.
The movie Gladiator was supposedly based on the story of Maximus Decimus Meridius, a Roman general who (as his name suggests) was the tenth son of a family from Mérida. While a lot of filming has taken place in Extremadura (including recently Game of Thrones sets in Cáceres and Trujillo), Gladiator was actually mostly filmed in Morocco.
Nearby, the Temple of Diana stands in silent grandeur, its Corinthian columns still reaching toward the sky after 1900 years. The Acueducto de los Milagros (Aqueduct of Miracles) is well named. 2,000 years after it was constructed it still defies gravity, soaring up to a height of 25 metres.
Yet, Mérida isn’t just a relic of the past. The Roman Bridge across the Guadiana River links two worlds: the Roman Empire and modern-day Mérida. The Plaza de España pulses with life, its cafes filled with locals and visitors, and the gentle hum of daily life flows alongside the remnants of history. The Roman Amphitheatre and Alcazaba glow in the evening light, offering a glimpse into the city’s layered past.
Mérida is a place where the past doesn’t weigh down the present, but instead enriches it, making every moment feel connected to a deeper, timeless rhythm.
The Museo Nacional de Arte Romano (next to the Teatro Romano) houses one of the world's finest of ancient Roman artefacts. It's a great place to try to grasp the real importance of the incredible riches that you seem to see at every turn in this incredible city.
Best places to eat and drink in Mérida old town:
Typical spend (per person):
€ = <€13
€€ = €13-€30
€€€ = €30<
El Puchero de la Nieta - €
Calle José Ramón Mélida, 14
El Puchero de la Nieta ('The Granddaughter's Pot'), just down the road from the Amphitheatre, serves up comforting regional dishes. While you can splash out on more expensive dishes there are some delicious, wonderfully budget friendly options - for example on the section of the menu humorously titled Con un Par de Huevos ('With a Pair of Eggs'). Migas (Shepherds breadcrumbs) or Huevos rotos con morcilla de Guadalupe (broken eggs with black pudding) are irresistible.
12:30pm-4pm, 8pm-11pm (Closed Sunday evening and all day Monday & Tuesday)
Naturacho GastroTapas - €
Calle Berzocana, 18
If you're in town on Thursday, Friday or Saturday (or Sunday morning) be sure to make a beeline for this casual, appealing no-fuss tapas bar. There are healthy vegetarian and gluten-free options and some really appealing Asian fusion offerings likes albondigas in curry or calamaria andaluza in Thai sauce. The tasting menu (at €30 for two people) is one of the best-value meals in Mérida.
Thursday-Saturday: 1–4:30 pm, 8–11:30 pm
Closed Sunday evening and closed Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday.
Restaurante De Tripas Corazón - €€
Calle Romero Leal, 15
With a prime location overlooking the Temple of Diana this Mérida is known for its great value and friendly service. Portions are generous and very fairly priced. The Solomillo is an icon of the restaurant but you'll find a wide selection of delicious tapas, fresh seafood, and hearty Spanish mains. Friendly staff go the extra mile...often with a round of complimentary shots.
Monday-Friday: midday-4:30pm, 8pm-midnight.
Saturday & Sunday: Saturday, midday-1am.
Restaurante Naya - €€
Calle José Ramón Melida, 44
With three different daily menus set in different price brackets this deceptively understated establishment could appeal to most visitors. The slightly upgraded (mid-range) menú extremeño is the one we'd recommend if you want to sample local specialities. It's also generously paired with a carafe of vino de la tierra. Simple no-nonsense sustenance served 'como Dios manda' (as God intended)!
Midday-4pm. Closed Tuesday & Wednesday.
Restaurante Tuétano - €€€
Calle John Lennon, 26
Chef Nico Vázquez works his magic on grills fired with holm oak embers in this Michelin-starred restaurant. Tuétano is almost as well-known in Spain at the Beatle who had the street named after him so be sure to reserve in advance. At 80€/person (wine not included) the menu is a solid notch above most...but then so is the quality.
Midday-Midnight (Closed Monday & Tuesday).
Parador de Mérida - €€€
Calle Almendralejo, 58
The restaurant of the parador celebrates traditional Extremadura cuisine, with all its Roman and Arabic influences. The restaurant is just at the edge of the old town in an 18th-century Baroque convent on a historic site that had once been a Roman temple. Specialities to look out for are the Extremadura lamb stew with shepherd's bread omelette or Iberian pork tenderloin with boletus sauce.
Open daily 1:30pm-4pm, 8:30pm-11pm.