Lost city of Cáparra

In the midst of the seemingly untouched wilderness of Extremadura it comes as quite a surprise to walk through a gigantic four-sided stone archway. Cáparra's 1,900-year-old arch resembles a miniature Arc de Triomphe as it straddles the Via de la Plata.

One can almost imagine the countless pilgrims who have passed beneath the arch over the millennia since the Roman city of Cáparra was founded, 20km north of what is now Plasencia. While the Romans were busy constructing fortified cities like this, with basilicas, temples, forums, thermal baths, and underfloor heating, the barbarian tribes in what would later become Londinium still imagined that bellies smeared with blue paint was the height of artistry.

The Cáparra archaeological site also boasts the remains of Roman streets, houses and a bathhouse. All of these are - needless to say - in a state of evocative ruin and the modern era has brought nothing new in the way of infrastructure to this site. Nevertheless, Cáparra is a cool spot to wander and a rare chance to soak up a real connection to ancient history in an area that never sees crowds.

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