Cáceres - the heart of forgotten Spain.
- Mark Eveleigh
- Mar 11
- 3 min read
Updated: Mar 25
The air in Cáceres is heavy with history. It seeps from the walls, the arches, the fountains. But beneath that weight, life continues to unfold at its own pace.
The encircling medieval walls stretch for over a kilometre, containing the echoes of centuries. The imposing towers of Cáceres’ old quarter loom, throwing jagged shadows over the narrow, cobbled streets and into the terrace bars on the great rectangular Plaza Mayor. In fact, the walls have remained so perfectly intact that 'little-known' Cáceres has actually become familiar to millions via television screens - most notably for the movie 1492: The Conquest of Paradise and as a setting for Game of Thrones. (Ask at the tourist office about cinematic tours but reserve in advance if you need an English-speaking guide.)
Cáceres old town was inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List in 1986 (just 8 years after the list was instigated). 'The city's history of battles between Moors and Christians is reflected in its architecture,' reads the UNESCO inscription, '...a blend of Roman, Islamic, Northern Gothic and Italian Renaissance styles.'
In this mysterious labyrinth of stone palaces and churches stand like silent sentinels against the ravages of time. The Casa de las Veletas, a blend of the medieval and Renaissance, stands as a monument to a forgotten age, while the Concatedral de Santa María seems to hold its breath, watching over the town with the dignity of eight centuries. There are around 30 towers from the Muslim period alone, and the Almohads battlements of the 12th century Torre del Bujaco (25m above the street) offers a view of most of them. Casa-Museo Árabe Yusuf Al-Burch gives you an opportunity to see how life was lived in a 12th century Muslim home and the Juderia Vieja (old Jewish quarter) is also particularly evocative.
Cáceres’ spirit is one of slow, unhurried grace, where the past doesn’t crowd the present but enriches it, gently reminding you of the timelessness that runs through it all. It's for all these reasons - and for many more - that the cacereño people are so obviously proud of their city.
Best places to eat and drink in Cáceres old town:
Typical spend (per person):
€ = <€13
€€ = €13-€30
€€€ = €30<
Restaurante Madruelo - €€€
Calle Camberos, 2
Typically a lunch spot (open 1:30pm-3:30pm weekdays), this respected fine-dining establishment also opens on Friday and Saturday evenings (9pm-11:30pm). The menú del día has a more limited selection than many but (at a rather hefty price of €33) is often rated as one of the best meals in the entire region!
Borona Bistró - €€€
Calle General Ezponda, 3
Known to estremeño high-flyers for its innovative twist on local specialities - think gazpacho with cucumber sorbet or the red mullet with oloroso - and also for its wine-pairing. Seasonal ingredients, locally sourced...and recommended by Michelin.
1:15pm-3:30 pm, 8:15pm-10:15 pm (closed Sunday & Monday).
Tapería 8ª Arte - €€
Calle General Ezponda, 7
Try the cazuelita (literally 'little stew') of the season, homemade croquetas or the red partridge. This is a great tapas option for vegetarians too with succulent puerro (leek) and alcachofa (artichoke) dishes. You'll even find a vegan version of pulpo (octopus) carpaccio!
Open daily from midday-11:30 pm
El Corral de las Cigüeñas - €€
Cuesta de Aldana, 6
A music, drinks and cocktail bar, hidden in a patio just off Plaza Mayor, El Corral de las Cigüeñas (the Corral of the Storks) is well-named since the birds often nest on the surrounding towers. It's a popular spot for cultural events and live music. Try the mango mojitos!
5 pm-2 am. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
Ripley - €
Calle Gabriel y Galán, 4
An unexpectedly quirky and retro burger/sandwich bar that should be on every visitors list (at least for some nachos and a beer...including some Spanish craft beer and very good IPA). The theme, vintage comic-book is highly unexpected in the historical heart of Cáceres. Look for the cabinet that reads: 'In Case of Zombie - Break Glass'.
8pm-12am on weekdays. (Also 1pm-4pm at weekends). Closed Monday & Tuesday.
Tapería Los Ibéricos - €
Calle Paneras, 14
A great tapas bar specialising in productos estremeños and with one of the cheapest and best-value menús del día that you'll find anywhere. Unlike so many Cáceres eateries it's reliably open every day, and there's indoor and outdoor dining on the shady terrace just down the street from Plaza de la Concepción. Also there's parking nearby (Galarza parking lot). Pork cheeks slow cooked in sherry is a speciality and the homemade migas (shepherd-style bread crumbs) are worth trying.
9am–11pm (10am-6pm on Sundays).